Remote Worker’s Guide - Chiang Mai

written by 
Tony Holiday
City Guides
Remote Work

Chiang Mai consistently appears as one of the top cities for remote workers around the world.

And for good reason.

The weather is favourable year round, cost of living relative to quality of life is the best I’ve seen, food options are endless, internet is fast, and it’s easy to meet other people working remotely. Whenever someone asks me where I recommend going to travel and work remotely for the first time, I always recommend Chiang Mai.

I’ve been to Chiang Mai 3 times, for a total of 5 months. While Chiang Mai is a small city that’s easy to navigate and discover, I’ve learned there’s lots that people don’t know, see, or take advantage of while they’re here.

In this guide I’ll share my experience of what it’s like to visit Chiang Mai as someone who is working remotely, and hopefully answer questions you have about living in the city for more than a short stay.

Table of Contents:

  1. Where to Live
  2. Where to Work
  3. Services
  4. Where to Eat
  5. Coffee
  6. Things to Do
  7. Visa Extensions/Immigration
  8. Additional Resources

‍

Where to Live in Chiang Mai

Nimmanhaemin

Nimmanhaemin

If it’s your first time to Chiang Mai I recommend staying in Nimmanhaemin (or Nimman for short). Nimman is situated on the west side of Chiang Mai, about a 10-15 minute walk to the Old City. Full of restaurants, coffee shops, co-work spaces, two malls, grocery stores, and a small nightlife scene, you have everything that you need within walking distance.

If you want western amenities, a modern style apartment, and walking distance to coffee shops + restaurants with all types of cuisine, you should stay in Nimman.

Santitham

A quiet Santitham street

Not far from Nimman is Santitham. A more localized neighbourhood with a nice community feel, however it still has a good selection of restaurants that are both local Thai and Western.

If you’re looking for cheaper accommodation than Nimman, a quieter neighbourhood (but not too quiet), and more local I would stay in Santitham. Santitham is great because of it’s accessibility to Nimman as well as the Old City, while having more of a Thai charm to it. There’s less tourists and more expats, so if you’re looking to stay long-term and get into the community, Santitham may be a good bet.

Suan Dok

An underrated neighbourhood, Suan Dok is situated just south of Nimman and North of the airport. Very quiet, has a few modern apartment buildings, and a few coffee shops and restaurants. If you get tired of those, you’re only a 10 minute walk to either Nimman or the Old City.

Similar to Santitham in the sense that it’s cheaper accommodation than Nimman and also has more of a local feel.

The Old City

Old City Street

I recommend not staying in the Old City unless you’re only visiting Chiang Mai for a few days. The Old City is great for tourists as it has lots of restaurants, bars, and well… tourist stuff.

Accommodation is mostly hotels and guesthouses, there are not many apartments or places to rent long term.

That being said, the Old City is great to visit. I recommend staying outside of it and going into it a few times a week for lunch or dinner, or to work at one of the many coffee shops or co-work spaces. It’s home to the Sunday Night Market, and if you’re looking for nightlife in Chiang Mai, one of the few spots is the nightlife corner which includes Zoey in Yellow amongst other spots.

I would only recommend staying in the Old City if you’re in Chiang Mai for a few days, planning to walk everywhere, and want to be centrally located to everything.

Central Festival

Central Festival refers to the megamall that is east of Chiang Mai along the super highway circling the perimeter of the city.

If you know the area and know what you’re getting into (you probably wouldn’t be reading this guide), then sure, I can see it being favourable in some scenarios.

But if you’ve never been to Chiang Mai before and have seen modern apartments advertised in Central Festival for a lower price than everywhere else, there’s a reason for it. The area is not walkable, you will need a mode of transportation if you want to go anywhere. Most of the buildings are directly on the superhighway so if you want to open your windows after the sun goes down, prepare for a constant hum of traffic, and if you’re on a lower floor, exhaust fumes.

Ideally, avoid staying in Central Festival unless you’ve been to Chiang Mai before and know the area. It’s worth mentioning in this guide because of how many people have asked me about it because they see lots of apartments for rent there.

How to find a place to live

Finding a place to stay in Chiang Mai is not difficult. There is plenty of housing for both short-term and long-term rentals. You could go through this process yourself without any issues, however I do have insight from my experience in renting apartments in Chiang Mai.

Airbnb

Rooftop pool from my Airbnb

Since I started using Airbnb in 2016, I have had both positive and negative experiences using them as a service. However when travelling in Southeast Asia, I’ve still found it to be the way to go. Here’s why:

  • No deposits
  • Pay using your credit card for extra travel points and insurance
  • AirCover insurance
  • Most places are self check-in, easy for arriving on late flights or not having to wait around for landlord/agency to come and do a walkthrough, bring the contract/sign papers, etc.

That said, I’ve had stays where I didn’t use Airbnb and my landlord/host went completely out of their way to make sure that I had the best possible stay.

But I’ve also experienced the other end. Random fees tacked on to not give you your full deposit when checking out, unresponsive when having issues with the accommodation, having a completely different room than you booked online. While some of these are minor nuisances, I would preferably avoid them.

This is why I recommend Airbnb. Most of the time you get what you pay for, have responsive hosts, check-in/out on your own time, and no deposits or random checkout fees.

Direct Rentals

If you’re on a budget, this is the way to go.

Chiang Mai has seemingly endless apartments throughout the city and most of the time you can walk right inside and rent from the front desk. This is a little extra work but can be the best outcome if you’re looking to be economical, provided you get a good host/landlord.

This requires booking a temporary spot for a few days while you ‘pound the pavement’, but you can get a feel for the neighbourhoods you want to rent in, and see the unit you would be renting before committing to putting down a deposit. However that is one of the downsides of this route, you will need to make a deposit.

If you’re looking to stay for at least a month, renting directly via the building manager can be a great way to save money and get a place you like, in a desirable neighbourhood.

A friend of mine found multiple spots for 6,000THB/month right in the heart of Nimman by walking around to apartment buildings and speaking with the building manager.

Rental Agency

Sadly my experience with rental agencies in Chiang Mai has been a pain at best. Based on those experiences I recommend against using rental agencies.

Between using Airbnb (higher price, best service), and renting directly (lowest price, possible to still get good service), I see no upside in using a rental agency. Typically they charge rental rates that are close to Airbnb, require a deposit, and go ghost or are useless when you need something from them.

Conclusion

TLDR; If it’s your first time in Chiang Mai, I recommend staying in Nimman and either getting a place on Airbnb before you arrive, or booking a room for a few days and speaking to the front desk at buildings that look appealing to you.

‍

Where to work in Chiang Mai

There is no shortage of great places to work in Chiang Mai. Whether you prefer a cafe, co-work space, or library, there’s options for everyone.

I prefer working at home and have not tried any co-work spaces in Chiang Mai but I have been to quite a few coffee shops to work which were excellent.

Coffee Shops

The cafe and coffee culture is vibrant in Chiang Mai, that mixed with a large young population (there are quite a few universities in Chiang Mai) makes for good workspaces with great coffee.

There are hundreds of cafes that you could work at in the city, see the ‘Coffee Shops to Work at’ section below for ones that I recommend and frequented often. They all meet my prerequisites, fast reliable wifi, good sized tables, and delicious coffee.

Libraries

  • TCDC – Great library to work in

Cowork Spaces

CAMP cowork space

As I said above, I haven’t personally been to any of the cowork spaces in Chiang Mai. From what I’ve heard from other remote workers or expats, these are the best.

  • Yellow
  • Punspace
  • Heartwork – beverage purchase gets you access, no membership required
  • CAMP – Free, but they have a time limit for the wifi unless you buy another drink.

‍

Services

When getting used to a new living environment, the small hurdles can sometimes present the biggest questions.

Where do I get a SIM card?

Where do I buy groceries?

How do I get around?

This section is about all the day-to-day operations that are easy to forget when you’re at home in an environment that you’re familiar with.

SIM Cards

The two most popular network providers are True and AIS.

True

Every time I have been to Thailand, I have always used True and never had any issues. Fair prices, good service, easy to top up if need be.

AIS

AIS recently ramped up their marketing by sponsoring all the major Thai Kpop stars, plastering them on billboards throughout Thailand, and therefore might seem like the popular choice.

I have not used them as a cell phone provider and cannot comment on their service. However, my home internet in all of my apartments has been AIS and it’s been great.

Either one will be more than fine.

Where should I buy a SIM card?

The best deal I got was with True from their store in MAYA Mall in Nimmanhaemin. 500THB for 3 months, unlimited data and 100 minutes of calling.

If you’re staying for only a month or shorter, you can get a Tourist SIM at 711 or the airport when you land. I have seen them anywhere from 120-150THB for 30 days.

Apps to Download

I would recommend downloading the following apps when you get to Thailand. They should all be available on your local app store.

Grab

  • The Uber of Southeast Asia. Can be used for transportation, food delivery, grocery delivery and more.
  • I use it mostly for transportation.

Foodpanda

  • The best food delivery app in Thailand. Has the best deals, discounts, and selection of restaurants.
  • Also the best delivery app for groceries.
  • Get the pro subscription, I got my first month for 1THB (not a typo). It gives you better discounts, deals, coupon codes, and free delivery on most orders. After the first month I think it’s only 30THB per month.

Lazada

  • The Southeast Asia Amazon.
  • Use for online shopping, you can find almost everything you can find on Amazon.
  • Looks a bit scammy at first, once you get used to it it’s great. I ordered groceries I couldn’t find in stores, electronics, household stuff. If you order local, usually it’s next day delivery.

Line

  • Southeast Asia super-app. Used for messaging, online shopping, payments, and more. I still don’t really understand everything it does.
  • I used it primarily for messaging. I find that Thai people or businesses are quicker to respond on LINE than Whatsapp.
  • They also have their food delivery subsidiary, LINEMAN, which has the best restaurants on it. I could not find a way to download it without getting access to the Thai app store.

WhatsApp

  • The global chat app default. Used for messaging, pretty widely used amongst Thai people and businesses.

Wise

  • Cheapest way to do international money transfers and foreign exchange
  • If you decide to go the route of not using Airbnb for your housing, this is a good way to send and receive your deposit or rent.
  • If your country offers the Wise Debit Card, you can withdraw using Siam Commercial Bank (SCB) ATMs. Sadly you will still get charged the 220THB fee from the ATM though.

GuideMichelin

  • Thailand is home to a large selection of Michelin Star and Bib Gourmand restaurants
  • Whenever you’re unsure of what to eat for dinner, check this app for inspiration. They have restaurants of all budgets.
  • The cheaper eats are typically Bib Gourmand, a category created for affordable options by local standard that are still delicious.

Tuk

  • Another ride service app, rarely used this one, but one cool difference is you can call Tuktuks and red trucks for ride sharing. It’s never hard to find a red truck in Chiang Mai but this app gives you access to them if need be.

Robinhood

  • Another food delivery app, different selection of restaurants.

Transportation

There are many different methods of transportation in Chiang Mai. I generally do the following:

  • In my neighbourhood or close by - walk
  • Going somewhere solo - scooter/motorcycle (if drinking, motorcyle taxi aka MOTO WIN on Grab)
  • Going somewhere with a group - red truck

A combination of the above is the best way to experience getting around Chiang Mai.

Walking allows you to get to know your neighbourhood, stopping at places that you would otherwise zoom by on a scooter or in a vehicle.

Scooter/motorcycle is the most fun and gives you the most freedom.

And taking a red truck is the most authentic. During the day you’ll be seated amongst Thai people as they go about their business, and at night you’re bound to run into other expats or travellers headed for a night out.

Red Truck

  • Sort of like a public ride share. They will pick up multiple people along the way if they’re going the same direction.
  • 30THB to go anywhere in the city limits. Most of them will have that written on the side, so if they try to charge you extra just give them 30THB
  • 100THB to and from the airport

Grab

  • Southeast Asia Uber
  • Moto WIN for solo rides
  • Car for multiple people
  • Rates vary, but will be much higher than a red truck or local taxi meter

Scooter

Renting a scooter to get around in Thailand is undoubtedly the most efficient and most fun, and Chiang Mai is one of the best cities to explore by scooter.

Should you rent a scooter?

Ultimately, that’s up to you.

Safety-wise, there are plenty of statistics that say you absolutely should not rent a scooter when you’re in Thailand.

But I do, and I encourage others that want to rent a scooter to do so provided they:

  • Know how to drive
  • Are confident driving motorized vehicles
  • Understand the risks involved

I had never drove a scooter before I went to Thailand in 2018. The first day I rented one, 3 of my friends and I drove to Doi Inthanon for a day trip on a busy highway.

But I:

  • Knew how to drive and have a drivers license in my home country
  • Grew up mountain biking and was confident of my ability on two wheels
  • Understood the risks involved

You should not rent a scooter if you have never drove before, don’t know how to ride a bike, and think that because the road rules are more relaxed in Thailand, this is your chance to try driving one.

Be honest with yourself and rent a scooter at your own risk. If you are a menace on the road, you are not only endangering yourself, but you could potentially harm others too.

With that out of the way, here are my tips for making the most out of driving a scooter in Chiang Mai.

Where to rent a scooter

These are the two shops that I have rented from in Chiang Mai. I always try to go for Mango Rentals, but once when they were out of bikes I used Cats, which was also a good experience.

Mango Bike Rentals - 1st choice
  • Best shop to rent from
  • Take good care of their bikes
  • Best prices
  • Just hold a photocopy of your passport as a deposit + cash, not the passport itself.
Cats Rentals - 2nd choice
  • Bikes in ok shape
  • Fair price
  • 3000THB deposit or passport
Tips for driving
  • Drive on the left hand side of the road
  • You can move up the line of cars at stop lights – This is expected of you and is not illegal or frowned upon like in Western countries. Thailand has a lot of traffic, in order to be efficient bikes are expected to weave between cars to get as close to the front of the stop light as possible. Typically you use the far left side of the road, but it’s not uncommon to weave up through the middle of a multi-lane road as well.
  • Wear sunscreen – The UV in Thailand is extremely strong. When you’re zooming down the road on a scooter the wind can cool you off, but this doesn’t change the effects of UV rays from the sun.
  • Wear a long sleeved shirt + pants – Two reasons, less need for sunscreen, and police presence, more on this below.
  • Get a helmet with a dark tinted visor – police presence, more on this below.
Police Presence

Farang – The Thai word for ‘foreigner’

I have never seen more Thai police check-stops than in Chiang Mai. And if you look like a farang, you’re going to get pulled over and most likely be sent away with a minimum 500THB fine.

The most common scenario:

  • Technically, you’re supposed to have an international drivers license when driving in Thailand. Most tourists will not get this before coming, the police know this. Motorcycle shops will rent you a scooter anyways because the responsibility doesn’t fall on them.
  • You look like a farang, they pull you over at a check-stop, ask for your international drivers license, you don’t have it, they give you a 500THB fine.

It’s not the end of the world, but it can be avoided. Here’s what I’ve found to be most effective.

  • Look like a local - wear pants and a long shirt. In 30+ degree weather, take a look at any Thai person on a scooter, most of the time they will be wearing pants, gloves, and a jacket for sun protection.
  • Wear a dark tinted visor – Good for UV protection and people can’t see your face.
  • Don’t drive like a moron – Unfortunately this has to be said. Don’t drive with your feet off your scooter out to the side like you’re a toddler learning how to ride a bike. Don’t do little slalom weaves with your bike in an empty lane.

Basically, don’t give the police a reason to pull you over.

I’ve been through countless check-stops in Chiang Mai where the police will pull over every single person in front of me that’s a farang, and then proceed to wave me through.

Blend in like a local, and you’ll be treated like one.

Where to buy food

Chiang Mai has some of the best food options in the world. There’s a number of fresh markets for locally grown veggies and meat, budget grocery stores, and high-end grocery stores where you’ll find western brands that you might miss from home. This is another reason why I like to live in Nimman, you have everything available to you within walking distance.

Grocery Stores

  • Makro – The Thai version of Costco. I go here for most things that I need to buy in large quantities or multiples of. Sometimes it’s even cheaper than shopping at the local markets (likely because at the market you will get farang prices).
  • Rimping Supermarket – Higher-end grocery store that also sells alcohol. Good for single, specific items that you would likely won’t find at places like Makro or Lotus. If you have dietary restrictions, you will find all your gluten-free, dairy-free, etc-free, options here.
  • Tops – Another high-end grocery store. Depending where you choose to live in Chiang Mai, you might be closer to a Tops over a Rimping. They have fairly similar selection. Anything I can’t find at Rimping I usually order delivery from Tops via FoodPanda.

Markets

JingJai Farmer's Market

  • JingJai Farmer's Market - Open Saturday & Sunday from 6:30AM to 1:30PM. It’s an experience to go here and spend the morning. There’s tons of food to eat, and you can get fresh local vegetables for the week.
  • Mae Hia Fresh Market - Open everyday. A quick 10 minute drive south of Nimman, a more local/expat market. Vegetables, meat, and the best sai ua I’ve ever had are at this market. Even if you’re not going to buy groceries, it’s worth a trip for the sai ua.
  • Saturday Organic Market - Saturday - A gem I found while cruising one Saturday morning in the hills south of Nimman. Fresh, local, organic vegetables available directly from the farmers. They also had a drip coffee stand. I really enjoyed going to this market, I was the only farang.

Delivery

  • FoodPanda – Use to order groceries from almost any of the stores mentioned above, except Rimping. If you get the FoodPanda Pro subscription you often get free delivery and discounts. There have been times where it was cheaper for me to get my groceries delivered to my front door rather than going directly to the store.
  • Lazada – I rarely order groceries from here unless it’s something I can’t find in any of the stores. Specific items that you want to order in bulk, etc.

Gym

In all the buildings I’ve rented there has been a gym, but in case yours doesn’t there’s a beautiful Jetts gym upstairs in ONE Nimman.

Pharmacy/Drug Stores

  • Boots – These are everywhere in Thailand

General Stores

  • Daiso in MAYA Mall – Good for cheap random stuff that you might need for your apartment while you’re here.

Malls

An event at One Nimman

  • MAYA – The big mall on the corner of the main Nimman intersection. There’s a movie theatre, the cowork space CAMP, restaurants, and a food court. I mostly go here just for the Rimping and Boots in the basement. Watching sunset from the roof is also worth it.
  • One Nimman – A boutique shopping mall in the heart of Nimman, lots of cool shops both local and branded. There is also a pretty good food court at the back. They frequently host events in the main courtyard and on the weekends have ‘White Market’ which hugs the south side of the mall along the street. Check their website for upcoming events.
  • Central Festival – The megamall of Chiang Mai. It’s not huge but by far the biggest, most western mall in Chiang Mai. There is a Tops (the best one) in the basement. If you’re someone that likes to shop, this is likely where you’ll find the most branded stores.
  • Central Airport Plaza – Not much here. I only go to the food court for lunch if I’m spending the day at the immigration office down the street.

‍

Where to Eat in Chiang Mai

Now that we’ve covered the day-to-day operations let’s move on to a more enjoyable section.

Food.

You can find a good standard of most cuisines in Chiang Mai. Whether it’s street food, western restaurants, local hidden gems, or Michelin Stars, Chiang Mai has it. There is a rich food culture in Thailand, and Chiang Mai has some of the best.

Below are my favourite spots throughout the city.

The 2nd best pad kra pao I've ever had

The Best List

The short list of the places I wouldn’t miss while visiting Chiang Mai.

Neng Earthen Crispy Pork

Restaurants

A general list of my favourite restaurants in Chiang Mai. All types of cuisine, minus Thai and Northern Thai.

  • Salsa Kitchen – Mexican
  • Umakutegoukyura-men – Japanese, Ramen and gyoza. Best ramen in Chiang Mai.
  • The Salad Concept – Vegetarians or people who are allergy prone will love this one. A modern menu of salads, and whole foods. They are very attentive to dietary preferences.
  • Beast Burger – As the name says, some serious burgers. It can be hard to find good western food in Thailand, but Beast Burger should fix your burger craving.
  • ‍Grill of India – Best Indian food in Chiang Mai
  • Grill of Punjab – Close second to the above
  • Peshawar Restaurant – Tucked away in an alley off Loi Kroh road, very good Indian food served by this family.

Asian Food Restaurants

Hainese Chicken Rice (Thai Style)

A similar take on the Singaporean staple, Thai style chicken rice is made the same way but served with a different sauce, usually consisting of soy sauce, ground ginger, and chilis.

Chinese Crispy Pork/Kway Chap

The name ‘Crispy pork’ speaks for itself, delicious baked pork that’s soft on the inside with crispy skin on the outside.

Kway chap is a soup made with crispy pork and other parks of the pig, thick teochew rice noodles and a rich salty pork broth.

Kway chap

While technically they are Chinese dishes, both are staples in Thailand. Due to Chinese influence and culture within Thailand, you can find some of the best of both dishes in the country.

  • Neng Earthen Crispy Pork – My favourite restaurant in Chiang Mai. Go here and get crispy pork, grilled chicken tom yum soup, som tum (papaya salad) with black crab, and sticky rice. It will change your life.
  • KuayChap FahThaNee – My favourite kway chap spot, right in the heart of Nimman. Delicious, everyday I walk by I see grandma making it tirelessly.
  • Yaowarat Chiang Mai Boiled Rice with Pork Ribs – A local’s favourite, very busy as soon as they open. I thought it was good, but the crispy pork is on the very crispy side. I personally prefer the crispy pork at Neng Earthen, but the kway chap is very good as the soup softens the pork a little a bit. Absolutely worth a visit.
  • Meater Earth – Roadside grilled and crispy pork. They make a nam jim jaew BBQ sauce which is divine.

Desserts

Street Food

  • Chang Phuek Market - stewed pork leg from the famous ‘cowboy hat lady’ featured in Anthony Bourdain’s Part Unknown, is located here
  • Chiang Mai University Street Food Night Market – Runs along Suthep Road, from Khleang 4 Alley down towards Outer Ring Road. Lots of great food stalls and it’s vibrant being amongst the Thai students
  • Gapraw PrikHaeng Pa-Samritl – The second best pad kra pao I’ve ever had and only 40THB. First is Mark Wiens’ restaurant in Bangkok.

Markets

I highly recommend visiting at least one market while you’re in Chiang Mai. It’s an event in itself and usually involves getting some snacks while you shop for fresh food.

  • JingJai Farmer's Market - Saturday & Sunday – If you go to any market in Chiang Mai, make it this one. Open Saturdays and Sundays it is packed by 8AM. There’s coffee stalls, food and dessert vendors, and fresh vegetables from local farmers. They always have live music and it’s overall a great place to spend a weekend morning.
  • ‍Mae Hia Fresh Market - Everyday – A wet market only a 10 minute drive south of Nimman. Good selection of veggies and meats. Highly recommend trying the sai ua.
  • ‍Saturday Organic Market - Saturday – Small, but worth the trip south of the city to visit. Local farmers veggies, a drip coffee stand. Feels very local and friendly. One of my favourite gems in Chiang Mai.
  • ‍Ba Pao Flea Market - Saturday & Sunday – Set in an old coconut plantation, this market has lots of food options and local goods. Worth sitting amongst the coconut trees with coffee and some snacks.
  • ‍Ton Phayom Fresh Market – Everyday – Locals market, an easy walk south of Nimman, great sai ua and nam phrik num. Worth a visit.

Ba Pao Flea Market

Farang Thai Food

The Thai food that you eat at home likely falls under what Thai people refer to as ‘Farang Thai food’, or ‘foreigner Thai food’.

Not to say that it isn’t delicious, it’s just been somewhat commercialized to attract tourists. If you’re looking for restaurants that serve what you’re used to eating at home, these are the spots. I’m talking Pad thai, green/red curry, pineapple fried rice, etc.

  • Tikky Cafe - the best Farang spot in Chiang Mai
  • Kat’s Kitchen - The noodles dishes are amazing. Definitely get the tom yum pad thai.

Northern Thai Food

Make sure to try Northern Thai style cuisine while in Chiang Mai. Northern Thai food is highly regarded throughout Thailand, and Chiang Mai is the heart of a number of authentic, delicious spots.

Khao Soi

Khao soi Mae Manee

Perhaps the most famous Northern Thai dish, khao soi is an egg noodle curry dish, served with either pork, chicken, or beef. This is a must try when in Chiang Mai.

Below are my favourite khao soi spots, in order. Although you can’t go wrong with any of them:

  • Khao soi Mae Manee – The best khao soi I’ve ever had. There’s two locations, I recommend the original north of the city.
  • Khao soi Loong Surin – Situated in the Hmong Doi Pui Village, it’s roughly a 45 minute drive to get here. If you go for a scooter ride to see Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Ratchaworawihan, continue along the road and eat here for lunch. Worth it.
  • Khao soi Khun Yai – Likely the most famous khao soi spot in Chiang Mai. Very busy, recommend getting there right when they open at 10AM.
  • Khao soi Maesai – A locals favourite in Santitham. Always busy, always good.
  • Khao soi Islam – Tucked in Islam Alley on the east side of Chiang Mai, this spot is a classic.
  • Khao soi Lung Prakit Kaat Gorm – This would be higher on the list in terms of taste, but due it being featured on Netflix there’s an insane line of tourists all-day, everyday. It’s good, but not worth the wait.
  • Khao soi Nimman – Honorable mention. It’s on the Michelin guide, but overpriced and not as good as any of the ones I mentioned above. It makes the list because I do like that they do untraditional meats like crispy pork khao soi.

Thai Style Roasted Chicken

Spiced grilled chicken usually served with sticky rice and nam jim jaew (a spicy/sour Thai dipping sauce).

Sai Ua

Sai ua

Northern Thai pork sausage, very fragrant lemongrass flavour, can be spicy.

  • Mae Hia Market stall – The best sai ua I’ve ever had. There’s a little stall in the corner where they’re constantly grilling and cutting up sausage. Simply amazing.
  • ไส้อั่วคำแปง (มหิดล) – A close second to the above. A grill right on the side of the highway, great to pull in for a quick snack.
  • Tong Tem Toh – If you’re going for a Northern Thai dinner and want some for the table this is a good spot.

Tom Yum Soup

  • Neng Earthen Crispy Pork – The tom yum soup with grill chicken is one of the best I’ve ever had. Very sour, the chicken falls off the bone in the tom yum broth. I would eat this everyday.

Mango Sticky Rice

Famous Northern Thai dessert made with glutinous rice, sliced fresh mango, and drizzled with condensed milk. Even if you don’t have a sweet tooth, this is a refreshing dessert worth trying at least once.

Nam Phrik Num w/ pork skin

Nam phrik num refers to the green chilis pounded into a delicious paste. Dipping fried pork skin into it is heaven. Can be quite spicy.

  • Ton Phayom Market – I really enjoyed getting it in the mornings and walking around the market.
  • Any Northern Thai restaurant should have it, a great appetizer for the table.

Northern Thai Restaurants

I get it, maybe you don’t want to go out of your way for food as much as I do. But I still think you should try Northern Thai food while you’re in Chiang Mai. These restaurants will have the majority of the dishes mentioned above so can eat them all in one sitting if you prefer.

  • Tong Tem Toh – My favourite. Good atmosphere, delicious food, and lots of Thai people in the heart of Nimman which is a good sign.
  • Huen Muan Jai – Michelin Star, very busy, but worth it.
  • Han Teung Jiang Mai – Being close to Chiang Mai University this spot is a favourite amongst students.

‍

Coffee

Coffee Shops To Work At

The Barisotel by The Baristro

Everyone has their own preferences for cafes to work at, these have been my go-to’s whenever I feel like working outside the house. In order:

  • Chapterone/cm – lots of space + light, not in a heavily trafficked area so it’s usually quiet
  • Finnland Cafe – Dead center of Nimman. Lots of light, big tables, lots of other remote workers
  • Yellow pug. – Yellow pug. is the name of the bar inside that I could find on Google Maps. But it’s more of an open creative space that has a stage for live music, a craft beer bar, and a cafe. It’s a big open industrial that never has anyone there. Great gem spot for working.
  • Tops Green Chiang Mai – Yes, the grocery store in the JJ Market parking lot. There’s a cafe on the far side with long tables, plugs and good wifi. Rare to have anyone there and easy to get snacks and food from within the store.
  • The Barisotel – Good coffee, bright, quiet, upstairs set up as remote work space.
  • Basecamp Trail Cafe – An outdoor hiking themed cafe at the base of Doi Suthep. A great spot for a morning coffee but also a quiet space to work.
  • yesterday Cafe – Darker space, but good coffee, big tables and rarely busy during the day. Doubles as a bar if you want an easy transition to happy hour after finishing your work day.

Cool Coffee Shops

Baristro Asian Style

Cafes that aren’t great for working, but great for having a cup of joe.

  • Fohide – My favourite coffee shop in Chiang Mai. Rooftop with a view of Nimman + the mountains. Not advertised so it’s a bit of a hidden gem.
  • BART Coffee – Really good coffee
  • Gateway Coffee Roasters – Cool spot on the east side of Chiang Mai. Good coffee.
  • Toffee Shop – Always busy, good vibe to sit and watch the world.
  • My Secret Cafe in Town – Overall cool space, they do live music some nights as well
  • Akha Ama – A classic Chiang Mai favourite
  • Roast8ry – Best branded coffee shop. Lots of locations throughout CM, but the flagship space is the one worth a visit.
  • Brew Fact – Little quieter spot to sit instead of the usual Nimman hustle
  • Baristro Asian Style – More of an event to visit. Cool space, but if you don’t get there early enough you’ll be amongst photographers and influencers. Worth checking out.
  • 8 Days A Week – CM university student hotspot, good music and cool space. One of my favourites for an afternoon coffee

‍

Things to Do

Some people have described Chiang Mai as boring, which I can understand if you prioritize nightlife. However, if you’re into more of a relaxed lifestyle there’s plenty of day trips and adventures to embark on from Chiang Mai.

Scooter Trips

Rent a scooter and go for a drive to a national park, explore remote Thai villages, or spend the weekend in Pai. There’s so many things to explore in Northern Thailand and riding a scooter or motorbike is the best to see them.

  • Pai – Arguably the most famous trip from Chiang Mai. Rent a scooter and drive the windy road through the mountains to the bohemian community, Pai. Go for more than a night as the Pai valley itself is an area worth exploring.
  • Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – Ride up Doi Suthep to the temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthep for the best view of Chiang Mai. Continue on to the Hmong Doi Pui Village and eat at Khao soi Loong Surin.
  • Mae Hong Son Trip (4 days) – One of my favourite trips I’ve done in my life. Rip a bike along the Mae Hong Son motorcycle loop and explore the peaks and valleys of Northern Thailand and Myanmar border.
  • Doi Inthanon – Day trip to the national park south of Chiang Mai. Might not seem like it in Chiang Mai, but it’s cold at the top of Doi Inthanon. Bring a sweater.
  • 1096/1269 Loop – A short, half-day (if you’re really taking your time) loop through the mountains. Leave Chiang Mai and head north, cut west onto highway 1096 and follow that road into the mountains. About halfway you’ll turn onto highway 1296 and eventually come out 20 minutes south of Nimman. This is my favourite loop to do if I’m feeling bored or just want to go for a drive.

Night Markets

Tha Phae Walking Street

  • Tha Phae Walking Street (Sunday Night Market) – The most famous tourist night market in Chiang Mai. Right in the center of old town, you gotta do it at least once.
  • Wua Lai Walking Street (Saturday Night Market) – More or less the same vendors as the Sunday Night Market, just a different location.
  • Chiang Mai Night Bazaar – East side of Chiang Mai, not worth going.
  • Khlong Mae Kha – A cleaned up old community waterway that they’ve made into a night market. Good on Saturday nights to check out.
  • Chang Phuek Market – A very popular tourist street food night market. Cowboy Hat lady is here, worth it for that.
  • One Nimman - White Market - Saturday & Sunday – The One Nimman weekend market. More goods being sold than food. Worth a stop if you’re in the area, but don’t make a special trip.

Parks

Angkaew Reservoir

Cooking Class

Nightlife

  • Old City – The Zoey In Yellow corner
  • Nimman – A couple bars seem good on the weekends along soi 7. Mostly young Thai university students.
  • Loi Kroh Road, Loi Kroh Boxing Stadium – Older expat nightlife. Loi Kroh road is full of girl bars, a muay Thai boxing arena, and a close walk to the night bazaar.
  • Events at One Nimman – Not necessarily nightlife in the sense of heavy drinking and club music. But have had some good nights at One Nimman depending on the event. Their wine and jazz night was a great spot to meet people both expat and Thai. They host different themed events often.

Live Music

‍

Visa Extensions/Immigration

Update: since originally writing this post, there has been some progress in modernizing the visa extension process. I have not tried this method, but you can supposedly apply to have your visa extended via the Thailand E-Extension website.

If this is available to you and it works as advertised, I recommend doing it and saving yourself a trip to the immigration office (except to get your stamp).

If it’s not available to you, read on.

Unfortunately, I needed to make this section. If you are looking to extend your visa or need to go to the immigration office while you’re in Chiang Mai, it’s not the quickest or most organized process. I made a few mistakes my first time going to get my visa extended which ended up turning into a full 9 hours at the immigration office.

No bueno.

Luckily the second time, I learned my lesson and was in and out in 90 minutes.

Here’s the process and what you can do to avoid a long day at immigration.

  1. Arrive early *most important – on Google Maps it says the office opens at 8:30AM, you need to be there well before that. I recommend 8AM at the latest.
  2. At the front gate you’re given a queue number for you to speak with the first stage of workers. I arrived at 7:50AM and was number 19. The time I spent all day at immigration I arrived at 8:40AM and was number 90. I didn’t get called to speak with the first stage until 11AM.
  3. They won’t start seeing people until 8:30AM when they open, but getting the lowest queue number is the key to being in and out as quick as possible.
  4. Just bring your passport – They have everything you need in terms of forms, camera to take your photo on a white background, and a printing station. It’s all affordable and it’s the best way to ensure you have the correct documents in order, the photo taken the way they like, etc. The workers know exactly what sheets you need and the order they should be placed. Don’t bother printing out anything ahead of time, just have it ready as a PDF on your phone so you can email it to the printing station.

In the past the cheat-code was to go to the Promenada Mall as they had a smaller immigration office which was never busy. To my knowledge it’s is now closed and they have opened one in Central Festival mall. I haven’t tried it, but if you have a scooter it may be worth trying to get your visa extension done there.

See this website for a more detailed and updated description of what you need for immigration.

‍

Additional Recommended Resources

© Tony Holiday, 2023 |
Twitter